India

There are so many things I could tell you about India. So many complexities and simplicities. So many beautiful things and ugly things too. I just emailed my friend Alaina explaining that India as a country kind of felt like a favorite great great grand aunt. It is such an ancient culture. There are aspects of it that are breaking down and it has experienced so much, and it is all the more wise and funny and peaceful and kind for it.

I decided to choose a picture or two from each place that Jess and I visited and explain the story behind the picture. Hope you enjoy!

1. Colombo, Sri Lanka - layover

Colombo was really just a layover from Thailand to India. But we had a night and day, so we contacted the Good Shepherd Sisters there to see if we could stay with them. Not only did we have a place to stay with them, we had airport pick up and drop off, delicious meals, fabulous mini tour of Colombo, and above all a beautiful welcome. Here the Sisters are showing us around the convent and projects. We had just gone to the place where they make the hosts for Mass and the Sisters left with that plastic bag full of bread scraps, which we started munching on like they were potato chips and giggling like it was the silliest thing. Maybe it was the heat and fatigue, but I like to think that it was also friendship and warm feelings between all of us. On the way to the airport later that day, Sr. Jinali (far right) turned our van around to buy us all McDonald's ice cream cones, just because! They are so good those Sisters.

Then to India!

2. Bangalore, Karnataka - 2 nights, 2 days

We initially were invited to come to India by Sr. Jyoti, a Good Shepherd Sister we met in Thailand. We became friends with Sr. Jyoti and told her we would love to attend her final vows. So we started our India journey there. It was a beautiful colorful ceremony. So many beautiful saris. So many Good Shepherd Sisters! So many languages. India has dozens of languages. At the ceremony, they sang songs in 5 different ones. It is very normal for people to speak 3 plus languages. Sweet Sr. Jyoti is second from right. Sr. Deana who is a firecracker and wouldn't let the dancing stop is far right. From far left is Sr. Jyoti's cousin, me, Jess, Sr. Jyoti's sister, niece, and another cousin. Sr. Jyoti's family had to travel 3 days by train one way to attend the ceremony and they were so lovely. We danced North Indian dances with them and then went sightseeing with them the next day a little bit. It was so great to spend time with Sr. Jyoti's family.

I had to include this plate of food. First of all, the picture doesn't convey to you at all how big the plate was. It really wasn't a plate at all, more like a small tray. And completely vegetarian! So delicious. Very spicy too.  At one point I ran out to get more water and I had tears running down my face. Of course, one of the Sisters saw me and said that ice cream was the best antidote! We couldn't stop eating despite the pain. I would eat it all again!




3. Fort Cochin, Kerala - 4 nights, 3 days

Kerala is known for its backwaters and lush beauty. We took a day cruise on an entirely man-powered boat. I bet this man could give Ironman a run for his money! I was especially happy that we booked a man-powered boat after one of our fellow tourists explained how the rivers are getting extremely polluted from engine-run vessels and houseboats. I literally sat in awe of this man's strength just as much as I sat in awe of the green surrounding us.

This was at a Kathakali show in Fort Cochin, Kerala, where Jess and I stayed. Kathakali is a traditional Keralan art form. The makeup is very important. The body movements are very important. The facial expressions are very important. This actor was giving a demonstration of the facial movements before the actual show started. His face (yes that's a man - our guess is that women traditionally were not allowed to act, like in Shakespeare's time) moved in ways my face cannot. Jess could totally pull of some of the expressions though. During the play, the actors said nothing. They communicated through their movements and expressions. It was mesmerizing. And kind of like sign language.

This is Prem and his daughter and granddaughter whom we stayed with while in Fort Cochin. We found their homestay on Hostelworld. Really lovely family. He set us up on a bunch of tours that were reasonably priced, chatted and checked in with us every night, gave us a clean room and bathroom. Since it was low season, we were the only ones there. It was nice to walk into his living room at the end of the day and see him sitting there with his family watching TV. We felt really safe there.


4. Munnar, Kerala - 1 night, 2 days

From Fort Cochin, we took a 2 day, 1 night tour to Munnar, still in Kerala. Munnar is a hill station known for its tea plantation. It was beautiful. Hilly and foggy and cool and rich deep greens. And tall tall trees! Pine trees, not palm trees. It was so amazing to be in a different climate and landscape after being in hot and humid for so long.

Really great vegetarian restaurant. We had masala dosa here for the first time, a big Indian favorite. It's a crepe like bread wrapped around a potato curry. Here, served on a banana leaf. We also had really good spring rolls and naan bread here. My sister so observantly pointed out that it's all men in the background. There actually were other women in this restaurant but wherever we went in India, it was true that it was by and large men on the street. Groups and groups of men. It was always a welcome sight to see a woman or two around.

In these tiny little dixie cups was the best tea we had in India. There we saw why tea is India's thing. I'm holding chocolate tea, Jess masala tea. Masala actually refers to just spices in general. Masala was kind of like what we would call chai tea back home, with a little bit of a different tang. Delicious. We had it as often as we could. It's also common to make tea and coffee with milk as a base, instead of water, so it was richer. With my slight lactose intolerance, I was glad for the smaller portions. Though I probably could have drunk the whole pot.

5. Panjim, Goa - 3 nights, 3 days

 In Goa, we stayed with the family of one of our Good Shepherd coworkers in New York City. She is originally from Goa and her in-laws opened their doors to us. Talk about universal hospitality! Here we are with Noel, Mama - the matriarch, Rena, and Reagan. They were so generous and kind to us. It was great to hang out with them, talk about life, talk about India and Thailand and the US. Noel, Rena, and Reagan actually live next door. Jess and I stayed with Mama.

Goa's main attraction is the beach and since it was rainy season the beach was not attractive while we were there. We did a tour of Goa's main sights the first day and then our second day we hung out with Mama all morning. She showed us how to make her chappathi, which is kind of like wheat tortillas and so delicious. She was so cute and warm with us. She made us all the chappathi we wanted! It was nice to spend time with a Grandmama.